Rising Stars: A Blazing Trail of New Talent

R i s i n g S t a r s :

A blazing trail of new talent

Silver bowl with a layered edge by designer-maker
Sidsel Dorph Jensen

THE GOLDSMITHS’ COMPANY’S summer exhibition features Jewelery and silverware by some of the brightest designer-makers in the creative galaxy. Entitled “Rising Stars”, this inspirational and exciting exhibition is on view at Goldsmiths’ Hall from Friday June 1 to Saturday July 14, admission free.

Janice Blackburn, contemporary applied arts curator and journalist, who was invited by the Goldsmiths’ Company to guest curate the exhibition, has chosen 19 designers, who she considers to be “up and coming” in terms of their skills, talent and public recognition. Between them they demonstrate a wide range of personalities, styles and working techniques.

In Janice’s opinion, “'Rising Stars’ represents the diversity and innovation of Jewelers and silversmiths working in the U.K. today. No longer can we expect the 'expected' but the work in this exhibition demonstrates the makers’ integrity of skills with enormous flair, imagination and surprise”.

Each of the designers has adapted the ancient skills of their craft while simultaneously questioning the traditional perceptions of silverware and adornment. The results are startling. The highly individual work reveals each designer’s intense creativity and represents a wide-ranging source of inspiration from architecture, throw-away cartons and packaging, to nature and the elements. Although hugely diverse the works all exhibit their makers’ mastery of craftsmanship and passion for working in precious metals.

All the designers will be presenting pieces made especially for the exhibition, together with other examples of their recent work, which collectively demonstrate their dazzling skills and accomplishments. To enhance these qualities, the exhibition rooms at Goldsmiths’ Hall will be appropriately transformed into a black abyss out of which these creations will sparkle like bright stars in a clear night sky.

Set of 3 hand raised pod vessels in fine silver with 24 carat gold
12cms, 7cms and 4cms tall
By designer /maker Shimara Carlow

“Rising Stars” is full of challenges and surprises. For instance the jewelry by designer Chrysanthe Staikopoulou is intrinsically linked with architecture both in its inspiration and its design. The jewel is one component of a larger being such as a piece of furniture or some other structure – it is not dependent on being worn to be admired or have a purpose.

In contrast romance is the starting point of Tomasz Donocik’s Jewelery which is designed with a male metro-sexual audience in mind. Tomasz’s highly fanciful creations are subtle, innovative and challenge traditional preconceptions of what is considered appropriate male jewelry. His jewels combine precious metals and gem stones with other luxurious materials such as leather and silk.

New technology presents exciting possibilities for today’s designers and David Goodwin and Jo Hayes-Ward are perfect examples of young Jewelers who have embraced techniques such as Computer Aided Design and rapid-prototyping to great effect. With totally different, but equally breathtaking results both have used these technologies to achieve superior complexity and accuracy in their work.

Mizuho Koizumi
Thorns of rose silver vase for a single rose

Silversmith Chien-Wei Chang’s striking silver ladles and vessels explore the process of moving knowledge and experiences from one place to another. He combines his passion for working in silver with a reassessment of the traditional usage of ladles, vessels and other domestic objects in modern society. Chien-Wei believes there is an intimate relationship between an object and its collector – each is on a journey.

It is the “take-away” and transitory mentality of today’s culture that intrigues silversmith Maike Dahl. Inspired by modern packaging, Maike takes very thin silver sheets, which she then folds and solders together to make a fascinating collection of tumbling tumblers, bowl and containers.

Silver milk jugs by designer maker Maike Dahl.
Made from thin silver sheets, folded and soldered together.
Maike’s silverware is adaptable to the modes of modern living and is focused on the “take-away” generation: mobile, responsive and independent.

Wayne Meeten, in contrast, creates intensely sculptural hand-raised silver vessels inspired by Tai Chi Chuan (a Chinese form of exercise), where everything in nature moves in complete harmony with the elements. Wayne is also a master of the Japanese technique of mokume game – the layering of different metals creating a subtle effect of color and surface pattern.

The Goldsmiths’ Company has been promoting excellence in the design and craftsmanship of silver and precious metals for more than 700 years. The summer exhibition at Goldsmiths’ Hall is a traditional showcase for a particular skill or aspect of the craft or individual designers. This summer, with “Rising Stars” visitors will be dazzled by the vibrancy and creativeness of the work on show and will leave with no doubt as to who are the trailblazers in today’s Jewelery and silversmithing firmament.

Hand raised silver vase by designer-maker
Wayne Meeten