WORLD HALLMARKS
Volume I
Europe, 19th to 21st Centuries

by William B. Whetstone, Danusia V. Niklewicz, Lindy L. Matula

This is a book that was worth waiting for.  It is an absolutely indespensible reference for anyone interested in European jewelry and hollowware. Years of extensive research went into this extemely well organized book.  Collaboration with European assay offices and government officials, including members of the  International Association of Assay Offices and the Hallmarking Convention have resulted in an absolutely consise and accurate compilation of hallmarks from over thirty countries.  There are over forty chapters and thousands of drawings and colored photographs of hallmarks.
 
From what I hear, this book has already sold out its first printing, so you may wish to get in line to not miss out on the second printing.

Available at http://www.hallmarkresearch.com/html/Books.htm
371 pages
$228.00

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art déco
Jewellery and Accessories
A New Style for a New World

Edited by Cornelie Holzach

Review by Marbeth Schon

This book is written and illustrated in the typically sophisticated and beautiful style of all the Arnoldsche published books in my collection.  It's a concise history of mostly European Art Deco jewelry and accessories with colored photographs of exceptional pieces by Cartier, Jean Despr
és, Boucheron, Joseph Chaumet, Chanel, Lacloche Frères, Tiffany, Constantin Vacheron, Jean Fouquet, Naum Slutzky, Fritz Schwardt, Wiwen Nilsson, Theodore Wende, Gustave Braendle, Theodore Fahrner, Heinrich Grosse, August Bonaz, Jakob Bengel, and many more.

I recommend this book for any collector interested in Art Deco jewelry, its history, and its designers.

Text is in both English and German.

Available at http://www.arnoldsche.com/
160 pages, 11-1/2" x 9-1/4", about 200 color illustrations. Hardcover.
USD $60.00 | Euro $39.80
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BENGEL ART DÉCO SCHMUCK

Edited by W. Lindemann

Review by Marbeth Schon

In the 1980s, at a London antiques fair, a German couple, Margarethe and Heribert Händel, became captivated by an Art Deco-style piece of jewelry   Because of its Bauhaus nature, they thought it might be German and began searching for more pieces and information regarding the maker. They later came upon an antiques dealer who had more of the jewelry and also sample drawings. It wasn't until 1993, however, when they found mention of Jakob Bengel, Oberstein in a sample book, that they began to piece together the story of the Jakob Bengel workshop and the uniquely beautiful costume jewelry it created during the 1930s. This sample book has given the couple the ability to authenticate their collection of Bengel jewelry that has grown to well over 400 pieces! 

This extensive collection has been now been exhibited in Idar-Oberstein, Hanau, Solingen, Munich, Vienna, and Turnov, allowing Jakob Bengel a place in the annals of art history and adding to the popularity and collectability of the jewelry itself.

This lovely book, published by Arnoldshe, tells the story of the Händel's quest and is full of large, exceptional color photographs of Jakob Bengel jewelry from the 1930s.  Along with the photographs there is fascinating text about the history of the Jakob Bengel factory in Idar-Oberstein with vintage photographs from Bengel catalogs. The book is an interesting read and has both German and English texts.  I highly recommend this beautiful book for both jewelry collectors and historians.

Available at http://www.arnoldsche.com/
216 pages, 24 x 30 cm, 245 illustrations. Hardcover. Text in English and German.
USD 85.00 | GBP 45.00

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FORM & FUNCTION
American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970

by Marbeth Schon

Review by Martha Trachtenberg

I have to begin this review with a disclosure:  I’m biased.  I’m writing this as the newly-minted assistant editor of the author’s brainchild, modernsilver.com.  More than that, I like her.  I’m a fan.  The potential downside here is that it would have been very difficult to write a negative or even lukewarm review.  Fortunately for me (and you), that proved to be a nonissue.  Onward. 

It is impossible to simply pick up Marbeth Schon’s Form & Function:  American Modernist Jewelry, 1940-1970, leaf through it, and put it down.  If that were doable, I’d have finished this review hours ago.  Once you start turning the pages, you may as well give up gracefully, find a comfortable chair, and settle down.  The writing is marvelous, the depth of knowledge and expertise extraordinary, and the bountiful selection of photographs is captivating.  What holds it all together, though, is Schon’s obvious passion for her subject, her appreciation of the artists and their work. 

The book is actually an extended catalogue for two major exhibits of modernist jewelry, which both took place in Fort Wayne, Indiana, in 2007.  Schon divides the contents into five parts:  American Crafts Revival in Metalwork; What Is Jewelry?; Artists’ Biographies; Macchiarini; and Makers’ Marks.  There are also Notes and Sources Cited sections in the back, for the convenience of readers who wish to do further research.  This format makes the book very user-friendly – if you want to read about a particular topic or artist, you can go there directly, rather than playing hide-and-seek with a lengthy essay or flipping back and forth from Index to sundry pages.  I do, however, strongly recommend finding the time to read the entire book; there are so many fascinating stories about the artists, behind-the-scenes tales that bring them to life for the reader while shedding light on the development of modernism.  Schon’s background in art serves her well as she puts the modern jewelry movement in its historical and artistic context, but she never falls into the dreaded academic jargon – the arcane language that functions best as a non-habit-forming sedative.  It’s really like taking a master class with a knowledgeable professor who clearly loves her subject; can’t beat that. 

Last but not least – I admit I found the cover design to be off-putting; it’s a random group of photographs slapped over a very busy background, itself a composite of more pictures, and the copy is set in a handful of fonts.  Given the outstanding quality of many of the pieces shown in the book, the cover could – and should – have been nothing short of riveting.  Those who judge a book by its cover will be inclined to pass this one by as an amateur effort, and that would be a shame.  It will be a valuable addition to the archives of anyone with an interest in modernist jewelry.

Schiffer Publishing, Ltd., 2008, $69.99
Subject:  American modernist jewelry and its creators
Content:  Historical context; biographical information on 103 artists; makers’ marks
Photographs: 471 color photographs
Length:  256 pages

Backmatter:  Bibliographical notes for further research; Index.   Click here to order this book
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Mexican Silver Jewelry Details

Leslie Piña

Review by Martha Trachtenberg

Author Leslie Piña chose an unusual approach in Mexican Silver Jewelry Details.  Rather than go over territory that has been thoroughly covered in several other volumes – that of the work of Mexico’s finest artisans – she decided to feature what she terms “popular” Mexican jewelry.  These are the pieces made by good, and sometimes excellent, artisans whose names are not well known, jewelry often made for the tourist trade, and in considerable quantity. 

 The book opens with a brief essay regarding the history of Mexican design and the influence of ancient artwork on contemporary silversmiths.  Piña does not go into much detail regarding the renaissance of the silver trade in Taxco and I found it surprising.  Spratling is absent, as are Davis, Piñeda, and many others.  Her focus is really on presenting the many, many pieces she assembled for the book, rather than on educating the reader.  Fair enough – again, there are plenty of other sources for people who wish to know the full story. 

 Five chapters of photographs follow the essay.  The jewelry has been broken up by category (brooches and pendants, earrings and cufflinks, et cetera) rather than by materials, makers, or style.  Each picture is accompanied by a brief description, including size, marks, and estimated value – we’ll get back to that.  The pictures are excellent, as clear and close as you could wish, hence the inclusion of “details” in the title.  There is an illustrated glossary of terms in the back, which would come in handy for a beginner.  A brief Marks section is included, as is a Selected Bibliography.  Again, the emphasis in this volume is on the 240+ pages of pictures, but even so, I wish more attention and space had been given to the makers’ marks; that part looks tacked on and suffers from sins of omission.

 It was fun to leaf through the book – I’ve become a fan of Mexican silver over the past few years and was delighted to recognize quite a few of the items shown.  I do take issue with the estimated values, though.  These days, price guides are almost out-of-date before they go to press – the market simply changes so quickly, in great part due to the Internet.  There are folks who take the printed word as gospel, and I could see them being surprised, to say the least, by the discrepancy between the suggested prices in this volume and what they would find on a site such as eBay. 

The question is, who will benefit the most from this book?  It isn’t aimed at advanced collectors, nor does it do much to educate beginners who want to really learn this field.  It’s a great coffee-table book for the casual collector, who will doubtless enjoy many “Aha!” moments as they look through it. 

 Subject:  Mexican silver jewelry, with an emphasis on commonly found pieces

Content:  Brief essay regarding development of Mexican silver jewelry, five chapters of photographs of jewelry separated into categories and assigned estimated values; 1154 color photographs

Backmatter:  Glossary; Marks; Selected Bibliography; Index.
Length:  303 pages
Schiffer Publishing, Ltd. $89.99  click here to order this book

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JEWELRY MAKING THROUGH HISTORY

AN ENCYCLOPEDIA

by Rayner W. Hesse, Jr.

This well-researched book is an excellent resource for anyone who wishes to learn everything and anything about jewelry from its beginnings through the present time. It is well organized, easy to use and interesting reading if you wish to sit down and read it through, but it is also a handy reference tool for times when you need to know that one special thing. I know that I will use it over and over again for just that.

220 pages, limited photographs
Greenwood Press, $55.00

www.greenwood.com

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THE LITTLE BOOK OF
MEXICAN SILVER TRADE
AND
HALLMARKS
new revised edition


 
by Bille Hougart 

review by Marbeth Schon

Click on the banner above this review to order the best little book to date on Mexican hallmarks because you should not be without it! This edition is absolutely invaluable to the Mexican silver collector. It is chocked full of photographs of hallmarks, many that you won't find anywhere else. When I received my copy, I was astounded by the amount of research that Bille has done to come up with this new edition of his already successful and popular book.

Thank you Bille!

287 Pages
Paperback
$24.95  Click to order this book

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All About
Antique Silver
with International Hallmarks

by Diana Sanders Cinamon

review by Marbeth Schon

 

This little book would be a great addition to anyone's archives who collects or deals in silver jewelry and objects.  The first five chapters talk about the different methods of examining silver, various types of silver and silver plating, ways silver items are made,  and how to identify and date pieces by style and period. The rest of the book is dedicated to international silver hallmarks and though not as extensive in this area as "Tardy" it is definitely a good companion to that book and has fresh information and up to date hallmarks. I am very pleased to own a copy of "All About Antique Silver!"

270 pages
146 Pictures in addition to hallmark photographs.
Paperback
$39.95

Available at http://www.aaa-publishing.com
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Bejewelled by TIFFANY
 1837 - 1987
by Clare Phillips

 
with contributions by Vivienne Becker, Ulysses Grant Dietz, Alice Cooney Frelinghuysen, John Loring, and

Katherine Purcell

review by Marbeth Schon

If you are already a Tiffany jewelry aficionado, this is a must-have book.  If not, you will nonetheless be astounded by the gorgeous photographs of jewelry contained in Bejewelled by Tiffany, 1837-1987 and will certainly be impressed by the story of Tiffany & Co.'s  extraordinary one hundred and fifty years of success.

 Click here to read the entire review

ISBN:      0-300-11651-9
PRICE:     $65.00
PAGES:     320 pp., 9-3/4 x 12
ILLUSTRATIONS:     170 b/w + 300 color
PUBLICATION DATE:     September 1, 2006


Published by Yale University Press
available at:  http://yalepress.yale.edu/yupbooks/book.asp?isbn=0300116519

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CONTEMPORARY ENAMELING

Art & Techniques
by Lilyan Bachrach

review by Marbeth Schon

This beautiful, new book from Schiffer Publishing by Lilyan Bachrach is an enlarged and expanded edition of her very successful book, Enameling with Professionals.  This new edition has nine new sections and over 300 additional photographs!

Lilyan is a veteran enamelist of over fifty years who has studied with the "greats" such as Kenneth Bates and Doris Hall.

The book discusses the techniques and materials for using vitreous enamels and has "how I work" chapters by over 30 enamel artists who share their secrets of working with the techniques of cloisonné, plique--a- jour, champlevé, etc. There are photographs of the work of over 55 individual contemporary enamelists.

I highly recommend this book for jewelers, artists, and collectors.

For more information about Lilyan Bachrach see
Lilyan Bachrach, Enamelist Author

Hardcover with dust jacket; 9" x 11"; 192 pages including index and charts.

$39.95 item #M003  click here to order this book
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Collector's Timeline
by Christie Romero

review by Marbeth Schon

For jewelry collectors who want to put things in  perspective historically, this is a wonderful ,concise, easy to take along, little book.

Have you ever wondered if a particular finding was the right period for a piece of jewelry, or whether or not the materials in the piece you just found can help to date it?  This "tough" little book has answers for those types of questions and it fits easily into your purse or bag so you can have it along when you are making buying decisions.

Thank you Christie!

$13.95
about 18 pages including covers, color coded


available at http://www.collectorstimeline.com/buyme.php3
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MODERNIST JEWELRY
1930-1960

The Wearable Art Movement

by Marbeth Schon

review by Jill and Byron Crawford

What a fabulous and comprehensive book ! Brilliantly written with an enormous range of wonderful photographs. Marbeth Schon has demonstrated  that she is a thorough and thoughtful jewelry historian. She has given us a book that puts mid-twentieth century modernist jewelry on the map, linking the expression of this wonderful art form to historical and philosophical movements. 

The provocative and masterful work of  the "titans" of this period, Sam Kramer, Margaret de Patta, Art Smith and Peter Macchiarinni is explored in depth, along with that of lesser-known jewelry designers who deserve recognition. I highly recommend this wonderful book to anyone who appreciates  jewelry as an artistic form.
Biographies of 175 jewelers are included together with 540 color and 35 black and white photographs, value references,  images of 74 makers' marks, index, and table of contents.

Hardcover with dust jacket;  9" x 11-1/4"; 272 pages.

$69.95 #M002 Click here to order this book
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Secrets of the Gem Trade
The Connoisseur's Guide To Precious Gemstones

by Richard W. Wise

review by Marbeth Schon  

Secrets or the Gem Trade by Richard W. Wise is a comprehensive guide to understanding gemstones. Wise enthusiastically shares his vast knowledge of the history of gemology, the science and art of gem cutting, the characteristics of over 16 basic varieties of gems from diamonds to tanzanite to pearls, and reveals some of the  "secrets" of the savvy gem trader. Wise's connoisseurship has come from many years of study and field work. His very beautiful and  well written book is an invaluable guide for anyone interested in gemstones and the gem trade, whether novice or expert.

292 pages, hard cover, $79.95
Available at http://www.secretsofthegemtrade.com/

See MODERN SILVER magazine article: Secrets of the Gem Trade:
Margaret De Patta and the American Lapidary Renaissance
by Richard W. Wise
 
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Spratling Silver: A Field Guide
Recognizing a William Spratling Treasure

by Phyllis M. Goddard

review by Marbeth Schon   

I am very pleased to announce Spratling Silver: A Field Guide, Recognizing a William Spratling Treasure by Phyllis Goddard!

The book is beautiful, concise, and informative.  Because it's a field guide,
the book is small and light enough to go along on any shopping expedition. 
There are hundreds of colored photos of Spratling jewelry and objects together with clear photos of each Spratling hallmark with timelines explaining when the marks were used and with what materials.

"Spratling Silver: A Field Guide," is the succinct answer to queries about William Spratling hallmarks and when and how they were used.  

Soft cover, 152 pages, over 500 photographs.

Available for $39.95 at www.spratlingsilver.com
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Warman's
J E W E L R Y 

Identification and Price Guide

ALL COLOR 3RD EDITION

by CHRISTIE ROMERO

review by Marbeth Schon   

This is the book we've all been waiting for--The 3rd Edition of Warman's Jewelry by Christie Romero with colored photos on every page!

Warman's is an indispensable field guide; a book that can and should go with you whenever you plan to shop for jewelry.  

This essential book for jewelry collectors and dealers covers every period and type of jewelry from Late Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century to Twentieth Century and Special Collectible Jewelry--from fine to costume to designer.

You will find historical information, current market trends, marks information, references, as well as a very helpful glossary of jewelry terms.  Warman's Jewelry by Christie Romero is the "Webster's Dictionary" of the jewelry world. Don't be caught without this important resource. 

A signed copy is now available at a 15% discount at  www.center4jewelrystudies.org
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T H E   W O R L D   O F   
BERTOIA

by Nancy Schiffer & Val O. Bertoia

review by Marbeth Schon   

The World of Bertoia is stunning pictorially and freshly revealing in it's intense new look at the "design innovations, original and beautiful forms, and tonal experiences" of 20th Century designer, Harry Bertoia. 
This is an incredibly comprehensive monograph about one man whose contributions to 20th Century art and design were innovative, seminal, and are now, indelibly part of American culture. The book walks you through Bertoia's life with a timeline from his birth in 1915 to his death in 1978.  Every aspect of his career including jewelry making, sculpture, furniture, sound sculpture, screens, prints and drawings is explored.

 Hardcover, 270 pages, 500 color and 200 black and white photographs

The price from Schiffer Books is $89.95  click here to order this book
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ART JEWELRY TODAY
by Dona Z. Meilach

review by Marbeth Schon   

Art Jewelry Today is a comprehensive guide to the techniques and designs of contemporary art jewelers

The book has hundreds of exquisite colored photographs of the work of  today's top designers  together with discussions about how each approaches his/her craft and the materials and procedures used to create jewelry.

This is a valuable resource for collectors, jewelers, and sellers of contemporary jewelry.

Hardcover, 550 color photos,  256 pages

The price from Schiffer Books is $50.00  click here to order this book
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WILLIAM SPRATLING
AND THE MEXICAN SILVER RENAISSANCE

MAESTROS DE PLATA

Published by Henry Abrams, Inc.
 in association with the San Antonio Museum of Art

Penny C. Morrill guest curator

Essays by Penny C. Morrill, John W. Scott, Helen Delpar, Adriana Williams, Gobi Stromberg, Jaime Castrejon Diez, Christie Romero, Patrick Kapty, Phyllis Goddard, and Jill Crawford.

William Spratling and the Mexican Silver Rennaissance, Maestros de Plata  is the catalog for the traveling exhibit of modern Mexican silver which opened at the San Antonio Museum of Art last October (see our preview of the exhibit Maestros de Plata).  It is the most beautiful, historically interesting, and comprehensive book about  William Spratling, his life, and his jewelry published to date. There are magnificent photos of the work of Spratling and other Mexican silversmiths along with information on Mexican metalsmithing techniques and materials, and hallmarks.

If you are a collector of Mexican silver, this book is will be an outstanding addition to your archives.

Hardcover, 279 pages, 470 illustrations, 340 color plates

Available at www.spratlingsilver.com
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a personal touch
the seawolf collection
late 19th- and 20th-century silver


This very new publication is an exquisitely illustrated catalog of Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and 20th Century modern European and American silver hollowware and some jewelry for the exhibition of the Seawolf Collection which is currently on display at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam (through the 20th of April 2003).

a personal touch is one of the most expertly designed and researched books on modern silver I've had the opportunity to own. There are also essays by experts on English silver, American 20th Century silver, and continental silver as well as detailed photographs of maker's marks. 

256 pages with at least 500 photographs. 
available at
www.naipublishers.nl  email:  info@naipublishers.nl
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Twentieth Century Costume Jewelry
by Angie Gordon

Published in 1990, this gorgeous compilation of photographs and fascinating information, is a must for a serious collector of 20th Century costume jewelry. There are only a limited  number of copies now available in hardback.

Angie Gordon writes about her passion for costume jewelry which started with early paste jewelry and continued to include bold gilt and geometric jewelry from the 1930s and 1940s.

The book lists all of the major 20th Century Costume jewelry manufactures with pictures of marks and historical information.

100s of color photographs, over 250 pages, hardback.
email Angie to order this book:
  Lovejoy@gulfaccess.net

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Linda MacNeil

United in Beauty: The Jewelry and Collectors of Linda MacNeil

review by Marbeth Schon 

This beautiful book by Schiffer features the art of contemporary jeweler Linda MacNeil. The uniqueness of this publication, compared to other monographs of this type, is that the jewelry is photographed worn by it's owner/collector so that the "connection between the wearer and the work" can be analyzed.

Linda MacNeil is an internationally recognized jeweler who's work has been featured in American Craft, Craft Horizons, Neues Glas, Metalsmith, and many other magazines and craft publications.  Her works are in numerous museums including the American Craft Museum, The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

You will be enchanted by the magnificent photographs of MacNeil's masterful designs.

The price in hardcover from Schiffer Books is $59.95   click here to order this book
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GEORG  
   JENSEN 

2Oth CENTURY DESIGNS

Preface by Janet Drucker and William Drucker

reviewed by Marbeth Schon

Georg Jensen, 20th Century Designs, a beautiful new book on Jensen silver by Janet Drucker, author of Georg Jensen: A Tradition of Splendid Silver, and her son William Drucker, takes the reader on a nostalgic and fascinating journey through Georg Jensen jewelry and hollowware catalogs from the 1940s-1960s. The jewelry section includes gold and silver designs for men and woman from the 1940s and the huge section on hollowware covers designs from the 1950s-60s. There are hundreds of black and white photographs as well as indexes with product numbers, original retail prices, measurements, and designers.

This compilation of Jensen catalogs, which were previously very difficult to obtain, will become a standard reference tool for collectors, dealers, and individuals who appreciate and treasure Georg Jensen designs.

 The price in hardback from Schiffer Books  is $69.95

Order this book on our book sales page
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Aluminum by design: Jewelry to Jets

Curated by Sarah Nichols
Published by Abrams

 Reviewed by Patrick Kapty

"Aluminum by Design”, the glossy coffee table sized book that accompanies the exhibition of the same name is a real eye-opener for those not familiar with the spectacular rise of aluminum over the last century and a half. From an extremely rare and novel material used in conjunction with precious metals and stones, to one of the most pervasive materials in our present day culture, the story of aluminum makes for fascinating reading. 

A series of short essays by several noteworthy experts in the field lays out the history of aluminum, and the volume is splendidly illustrated with the many interesting and unique objects to be seen at the exhibition. “Aluminum by design” is well worth the $50 or so price tag, and if the exhibition is yet to make it to your area, don’t miss it!
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The Little Book of Mexican Silver Trade and Hallmarks - Hecho en Mexico

 by Bille Hougart 

Review by Patrick Kapty

The Little Book of Mexican Silver Trade and Hallmarks is that, and a whole lot more! Though we're just reviewing this nifty little tome, it's already listed on the SilverForum Indispensable Books list. And for good reason, nowhere else are so many of the hallmarks, both known and unknown, brought together in one easy-to-use volume. For collectors of Mexican silver jewelry and objects this is a must-have for the field!

Bille Hougart has compiled over 1200 marks that are found on Mexican silver, and with many of them has included concise biographies that often include descriptive information valuable to the collector. Of particular usefulness this volume also includes cross-references to eagle marks among the regular listings as well as an entire section on the eagle marks with the various maker's marks that have been found with them. And, if that's not enough, the author has also included a chronology of key events, a glossary of common terms, a biography, and an index. Needless to say, this level of scholarly endeavor is not common in most books for collectors.

Thank you, Bille, for a job well done!
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Navajo Spoons
Indian Artistry and the Souvenir Trade, 1880s-1940s

by Cindra Kline

review by Marbeth Schon

Navajo Spoons, Indian Artistry and the Souvenir Trade 1880s-1940s is a well-researched, unique chronology of  the Navajo silver spoon trade.

Navajo spoons have been continually sought after by collectors since the Victorians began railroad travel to the Southwestern U.S. and discovered the beautifully designed hand-wrought spoons which the Navajo silversmiths formed from silver dollars and silver quarters and decorated with impressed Thunderbirds, arrows, whirling logs, headdresses, eagles, stars, feathers, and hundreds of  motifs, each individual and one-of-a-kind. 

If you've never thought about collecting Navajo spoons, this book with it's numerous color photographs of these charming mementos will certainly whet your appetite for the hunt.  Good luck!

Click here to order this book
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