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by B. Lennart Persson & Svein G. Josefsen
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The strong emphasis on enamel on silver that gave Norwegian goldsmiths their reputation made Norwegian silver a growing industry, and meant a lot for the export. This is especially true for the jewelry. Today one can find mid-century enameled jewelry from Norway anywhere in the world. Although Norwegian silver should always be marked, it usually takes some knowledge to decode the different hallmarks that appear. This article gives some guidelines on the subject of hallmarks on modern Norwegian silver. The emphasis will be on mid-century enameled jewelry, but as the same hallmarks also appear on other jewelry and silver items, the article may also be useful in a broader sense. |
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| There are no city
stamps or date letters on modern Norwegian silver. Early pieces are sometimes
marked with the year, e.g. 1921, and/or the city such as Oslo, Christiania (the
former name of Oslo until 1906), Bergen or Trondheim. The bigger companies
started using 'Norway' and the content mark 'Sterling' after World War II.
However, since this has been a question of company policy there are no rules for
this. When the word Norway or Norge is not stated, the first
clue to identification of Norwegian silver is the content mark that gives the
quantity of pure silver in the piece. This usually is either 925 S (meaning
925/1000 pure silver which is equivalent to Sterling silver) or 830 S ( a quality
often called 'coin silver' in the US) which means 830/1000 pure silver and is often
used in the Nordic countries.
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Mark used by
David-Andersen 1924-39
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There should also
be a maker's mark that identifies the goldsmith, the company (or the importer
responsible for the marking). This is to guarantee that the content of
silver is not lower than stated. For the collector this makers mark is an
important clue to the identification of the piece. Other marks that appear on
Norwegian silver can be designers marks, initials or symbols referring to the
designer, or the abbreviation 'inv'. and the initials (inventor =
designer). Numbers other than the content marks can be product numbers or in
some cases limited editions. There can also be Norwegian words that refer to the
production, such as handarbeid = handmade, and mønsterbeskyttet
= copyright.
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Makers' marks on mid-century enamel
jewelry |
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| On Norwegian silver the maker's mark often consists of a symbol, but it could also be a printed name, an abbreviation or the initials of the maker. Many companies have more than one hallmark registered, this can sometimes be confusing. If the hallmark consists of letters it can also easily be confused with Danish hallmarks because they have the same system with content mark and makers mark. In these cases, one will need a guide to be able to find out if the hallmark represents a Danish or a Norwegian maker. | |||
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Makers' marks used on Norwegian
silver are to be registered with the authorities. There are more than 1,600 marks
registered. The marks listed here are examples of hallmarks from a few of the
most important makers of Norwegian mid-century enamel jewelry.
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Designer
marks on Norwegian silver |
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| For the collector,
it is always useful if there are also marks indicating the designer of a piece
of jewelry. This is not often the case on Norwegian silver. The David-Andersen
company started using designer marks in the 1930's. These hallmarks were rarely
used on jewelry, but rather on larger enamel vases, bowls and bonbonnieres. In
the 1960's, the company also started marking some jewelry with the designers
mark. Normally the D-A designer marks have the abbreviation 'inv.', for inventor,
and the initials of the designer. In 1959, Uni David-Andersen, the great
granddaughter of the founder of the David-Andersen company, began a small
workshop of her own. Uni and her designers used the same system for designer
marks as the family company. Jewelry from that workshop are typically marked both
UNI and the designers mark.
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The designer mark of Marianne Berg on a piece made at the workshop of Uni. | |
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The designer mark of Bjørn Sigurd Østern on a piece designed for David-Andersen. |
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There are also pieces made by the company J.Tostrup in the 1960's that have designer marks. It is very rare to find designer marks on pieces from other companies, other than studio jewelry. To be able to identify the designer one must often use other sources than the hallmarks, such as old ads and articles in magazines. |
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The designer mark of Gine Sommerfelt on a piece designed for J.Tostrup. | |
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The designer mark of Gudmund Elvestad, also for J.Tostrup. |
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Guide to designer marks used |
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| INV.B.D-A | Ben (Benedicte) David-Andersen | 1960's, UNI's workshop |
| INV.B.S.Ø | Bjørn Sigurd Østern | 1961-85 |
| INV.ESTHER | Esther Helén Slagsvold | 1994-97 |
| INV.G.G | Guttorm Gagnes (Kristiansen) | 1950-62 |
| INV.G.K | Guttorm Kristiansen (Gagnes) | 1927-49 |
| INV.H.S | Harry Sørby | 1929-70's |
| INV.I.D-A | Ivar David-Andersen | 1927-70's |
| INV.I.H | Ingjerd Hanevold | 1992 |
| K.J.Otteren | Karl Jørgen Otteren | 1960's |
| INV.K.M | Konrad Mehus | 1990's |
| INV.L.S.R | Liv Solnør Rogan | 1970's- UNI's workshop |
| INV.M.B | Marianne Berg | 1964-2002 UNI's workshop |
| INV.M.B | Millie Behrens | 1992-2001 |
| nora g. | Nora Gulbrandsen | 1958-62 |
| INV.S.K | Synnøve Korssjøen | 1990's-2001 |
| INV.SOL |
Solfrid Simensen |
1984-2002 UNI's workshop |
| SØNKE | 1970's | |
| INV.T.L-J | Torbjørn Lie-Jørgensen | 1927-61 |
| UNI | Uni David-Andersen | 1959-2001 UNI's workshop |
| INV.U.T |
Unn Tangerud |
1964- UNI's workshop |
| W |
Willy Winnæss |
1950's |
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The designer mark of Willy Winnæss. | |
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The designer mark of Karl Jørgen Otteren on a piece made for David-Andersen. |
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Article
and photographs by B. Lennart Persson & Svein G. Josefsen
http://effie-graa.com/
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Copyright © 2004 text and photo: egc online
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